giovedì 9 giugno 2016


3 commenti:

  1. Bel lavoro!
    Il forcellone verlicchi è molto più largo di quelli di serie? Quanto va spessorato per montare I cerchi originali?
    Cuao e complimenti

  2. La larghezza é praticamente uguale, ho aggiunto uno spessore di 2mm.

  3. It's brilliant, but I'd take the rear brake mods even one step further: If you look into "Motorcycle Classics" magazine (or was it "Classic Motorcycle Mechanics"?) from October 2009, there's an article about two BIMOTA specials in Northern Ireland - they're on the cover - The one or the other of 'em, I don't recall which it was either a DB1 or an SB2/SB3, had this special aftermarket or custom DIY rear brake mod, which I've always thought was brilliant (and I hope to copy it on my '82 Honda "CB900K0 Bol Bomber") What they DID was they ran the hydraulic fluid down the length of the stay-arm/torque-rod of the rear brake, in tension as it was an under-slung caliper, which of course meant the whole assembly could be built more delicately than if it were a top mounted caliper (well obviously YOU already know this) This also has some bearing on whether & how the compression washers would seal between the main length of hollow rod, the banjo fittings, and the clevises at either end. You see, I'm not just talking about a hose fed down the length of a rod & snaked through holes etc (as some foolish types have even done to the SWING-ARM, drilling in ways which weaken the whole structure AND allowing water to infiltrate & rust out the insides - The "Wrenchmonkeez #1" iirc, is an example) This Bimota in question seems to have used a machined bar stock, but for MY own version I'm planning to use some female threaded hollow rod or "pipe" if you will, which actually comes from an IKEA floor lamp! Ha-ha. Hopefully it'll work. The trick is in finding the right size of BANJO fittings, and ideally plumbed to a narrow gauge of hose rather than something analogous to the threaded "pipe" itself, which is something like a 1.5mm x 12mm metric thread iirc. I'd expect to find the banjo fittings from an Automotive application, and I fully expect that the two short hoses at either end of the assembly would employ somewhat oddball sizes/combinations of Banjo to hose-barb, or a threaded plumbed Banjo with an odd combination thread to hose-barb piece. Though, all of THAT could be obviated through the use of a specially machined T-splitter fitting and/or CLEVIS slash HEIM/ROSE-JOINT fitting with an integrally plumbed outlet, reducing the thread of the rod itself to that of the caliper & master-cylinder etc.

    Either which way, the TRUE measure of success would be if and I mean IF, the whole thing weighs less than the original set-up. Which is a challenge, especially given the extra complexity involved. So I guess an additional measure of success would be to do it with as few parts as possible, and with as little ridiculous machine-shop time and EXPENSE as possible. But - the one key advantage in all this is you wouldn't have the extra wear & tear & road-grit accumulation which comes with the flexible hydraulic line being zip-tied along the swing-arm or stay-arm/torque-rod or both - Or alternately, you wouldn't have the flex line dangling around possibly rubbing against the tire or wheel/rim etc.

    If you manage to check all of those boxes, then yeah - you WIN! Not the RACES, mind you. The weight savings aren't THAT significant. And hey, the weight savings being as low as they are, this kinda mod would look all the more ridiculous if you DON'T pair it up with the best most light-weight rear brake bits you can lay hands on.

    Guess this presents problems for ME, trying to do this with an '82 HONDA. Ha-ha. And with my fixation for period-correct stuff, and OEM only or Aftermarket, just no friggin' ITALIAN crap on my bike is rule numero uno, well then yeah it's a really tough job....